Sunday, November 14, 2010
Pictures, part 2
Last Full Day in Prague
So way back when Katie and I confirmed that we would be meeting up in Prague, Katie did some research on the different attractions in the area. On Friday, we did a lot of what was available in the city. So on Saturday, we thought that we would do a field trip into the Czech countryside, to Kutna Hora.
Kutna Hora is a small-ish city that’s about an hour by train outside of Prague. We had seen the guided version of our proposed excursion, but that was going for around $70 (and we wouldn’t get to ride the train) so we decided to have an adventure and figure it out for ourselves. In retrospect, I’m not sure how it could have worked out better – at least in terms of logistics.
We got up around 8:15, got ready, and had breakfast in the hotel, which was very nice. Then, we walked to the main train station (I clarify that it was the main train station because the first train station that we stopped at was not the correct train station), got our tickets ($10 each, round trip) and found our train. There weren’t very many seats left in the cabins, so we took two of the sideways-facing seats in the corridor. Really, a very comfortable ride.
I now feel obliged to tell you all about the attraction that we were off in search of. It was a bone church. And not a bone church with one or two skeletons or anything. Official estimates put the number of skeletons contained in this church between 30,000 and 50,000. Most were likely killed by the plague. So apparently, there was some kind of excess supply of bones, and a shortage of normal church-decorating materials. The church is entirely ornamented with these many, many skeletons.
When we got off the train, there was a bus waiting to take us into the center of town. We hadn’t really looked at a map or anything, so we jumped on board, figuring that first we would show up, and then we would see what happened. We made it to the center of this decent sized city, only to find that it was completely deserted. We have a few theories as to why we would have been able to walk around for a few hours and never see more than five or six people in a given spot, but nothing confirmed.
So from the center of town, we first went to look at a few of the normal churches. I took a fair amount of pictures, which I’ll post after I post this. We got pizza for lunch, and that was very good and quite possibly fully home-made. We found a few locals, who were able to tell us about the bus schedule to the bone church (busses came every two hours), but then we really looked at the map and decided that it was a gorgeous day, and we would just walk the two and a half miles.
The bone church was pretty intense. It really was the remains of 40,000 people. I don’t know whether I doubted that, but it was definitely a lot easier to comprehend once we were actually looking at the coat of arms that included every bone in the human body and the house-looking-structures made out of skulls and femurs. Everything, from the window hangings to the chandelier to the wall decorations was completely constructed of bone – and long enough ago so that it’s not like they had glue or anything. I took pictures of all the information, so if you’re interested, you can read all about it.
After the bone church, we walked back to the train station, and headed to Prague. We made it back to the hotel around 4:30, and took epic naps (there was a lot of walking – we were tired). When we woke up, we hit the city to finish looking for souvenirs and to get a “traditional” Czech dinner. I had the goulash (with an unidentified “meat”) in a bread bowl. It was very tasty, but I think that Katie’s pasta may have taken the dinner cake. It was fabulous.
After dinner and shopping, we walked back to the Charles Bridge to see the view of the city and the castle at night. It was very picturesque (and I didn’t have my camera). We really got lucky with the weather this weekend.
Tomorrow it’s home! I leave Prague around 2:00, get in to Frankfurt around 3:00, leave for Dulles at 5:00, arrive at Dulles nine hours later at 8:00 (I heart time zones), leave for Charlotte at 10:00, and get to Charlotte at 11:15. When I get to see Troy! Yay!
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Last Day of Sessions
The presentation was focused on black and white race relations. Wayne Drash is originally from Mississippi, and discovered papers documenting his family's ownership of slaves. This led to a lengthy (and continuing) search for the descendants of his ancestor's former slaves, which Robert has assisted in. Generally, he has found the exchanges to be positive encounters, as the descendants of slaves have been grateful to receive the information that Wayne provides. There were, apparently, several awkward situations in Mississippi with some racist (and white) "gentlemen."
My only problem with the presentation was that Wayne referred to slavery as "The Holocaust of American History." I took note of that as being a term that I had never heard in conjunction with slavery, and I was interested when one of the other participants stood up during the Q&A and essentially said, I'm from Austria, I'm sensitive to your use of the term Holocaust, is it really appropriate? Many of the other participants (particularly the Europeans) seemed to echo his concern. Wayne responded that it was how many of the people that he has interacted with in his search had referred to slavery, so he had adopted the term. I, however, did some super-fast googling. There is not a single hit for "Holocaust of American History," relating to slavery or otherwise, so I remain skeptical of the term. I guess that now there will be a Google hit.
The next session was 90 Minutes Radio Free Europe with Radio Liberty. The session began with Jeff Gedmin, the President of Radio Liberty. He discussed areas of the world that still lack access to the media and freedom of the press. Following his introduction, the group watched a documentary on Chechnya (The Dark Side of the World), which was filmed ten years ago. Terror, widespread corruption, and economic devastation, however, are still very much a part of daily life. The Political Rights Score for Chechnya is 7, as is the Civil Liberties Score, indicating that the status of the country is Not Free. The question and answer section of the panel was really interesting, particularly with regard to US and EU policies impacting and including Russia and human rights violations.
And now it's time for lunch. And for KATIE THORNE to come!!!!
P.S. Lots of bow ties among panelists today. That's probably not in any way significant, but that's my observation.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Security Day!
Hey everyone,
Today started with two hours devoted to coming up with projects in our small groups. Though I feel like we're making progress, we're really struggling with how we can make our projects self-supporting in future years. We (as a group, though I personally am a little unsure) feel confident that we could raise requisite funding for the initial costs of a project, but long-term revenue generation currently eludes us.
My favorite idea so far is to do a survey project of Eastern European businesses to determine where they are in terms of sustainability, and what their tool/resource needs are. There are several benefits to this, including the fact that it would fit well within the year time-frame that we have to use the money, it is within the skill set of the group, it would help to generate data in a currently under-explored area, and it would keep us from developing a project that Central European businesses have no real interest in or use for. Unfortunately, we were kinda discouraged from doing research projects, and that's really what this is - it's also not something that's self-sustaining (unless we promise to do follow up studies on a frequent basis... with additional money from.... somewhere). We'll just have to keep brainstorming tomorrow.
After the brainstorming session, everyone met to listen to the two security presentations. They were reasonably interesting, particularly the one by the Czech former general. He said that he felt that the Czech Republic was toning down its security in the wrong ways. For example, he said, and we all agreed, that if there were to be a bio-terrorism attach in the Czech Republic, it would probably happen in Prague, and it would probably be in the Metro, where lots of people would be exposed. Unfortunately, the hospital that is equipped to deal with that is over 100 km away. People would have to be transported by helicopter. Unfortunately, the helicopters are also located far away, and there is a mountain range between them and Prague - a mountain range that can't be crossed by helicopters in the winter. There is a hospital that is equipped to handle bio-terrorism closer to Prague. It has four beds. So... with all that in mind, I guess that I feel like he made a pretty compelling argument.
After lunch, the next session was on environmental literacy and using education to create sustainable development. The speakers were pretty good, though they both seemed a little jaded. Blazena Huskova talked to us about nature deficit disorder and how challenging it is to change beliefs and attitudes once people get older - her organization has had more success in working with children. Jana Dlouha talked about the history of environmental and sustainable development education, and highlighted some of the differences between the two. As nearly as I can tell, sustainable development education looks at the future and encapsulates a number of different values, while with environmental education, the environment and nature are the values. Both speakers agreed that in order for change to occur, there needs to be a respected spokesperson, and that educating children is the way to go.
After hearing about environmental literacy, my friend Laura (a native of York, ME) and I decided to explore Prague a little bit. We took the metro and then the tram to the castle, where we walked around the grounds. It was really cold - I was really hoping for some snow (it was on the forecast!) but alas. The castle is absolutely huge, and seems to have had several different additions from different time periods. We even got to see the changing of the guards! Not as exciting as it is in London, but still. I'll put the video up on Facebook at some point. We kept walking and window-shopping and eventually made our way back to the hotel.
Now I'm going to do some school work. We're eating with our dialogue group (so all the other people in the environmental section) tonight, so that should be fun.
Plans for tomorrow
Chipping Away at Intolerance in America - Wayne Drash and Robert Johnson, CNN
Group Photo
90 Minutes Live with Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty Program (Focus on Chechnya and Human Rights) - Jeff Gedmin, President of Radio Free Europe; Jaromir Stetina, Czech Senator; Josef Pazderka, Czech TV Reporter
Group Project Meetings Group Reports Closing Remarks - Judith A. McHale, Under Secretary, Public Diplomacy and Public Affairs, US Department of State
Feel free to comment! Also, sorry about the photo - it was foggy today.
P.S. KATIE COMES TOMORROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Monday, October 25, 2010
Katie's coming to Prague!!!!!
Friday, October 15, 2010
A little more information
I have slightly more information about Prague now. On November 6th, I will be meeting a group of Americans in DC. Then, on November 7th, we have a half-day orientation, followed by a flight to Prague (I'm thinking that flight will be seven or so hours long). The conference starts on November 8th, and seems to run until November 11th.
On the 12th, the idea is for everyone to return to the states. However, I requested (fingers crossed in a big way) to remain in Prague and fly out two days later, on the 14th. This is because the fabulous KATIE THORNE has arranged to come and meet me in Prague for an R-MC reunion. Which, clearly, would be awesome.
So, if all goes according to plan, I get to go to Prague, see Katie Thorne, and get back in time for Troy's birthday on the 15th. Life is pretty grand.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Back in Athens!
I know, I know, I’m behind on the blogging. So today (Monday) we came back to Athens from Santorini. Our flight was delayed leaving Santorini by around an hour, but it was only around a 40 minute flight to begin with, so it wasn’t at all bad. We had allocated the afternoon to go to the Temple of Poseidon. Since that was not as easy as it originally seemed (there was another bus station for us to find) and we all needed to spend some time out of the sun, we decided to spend the afternoon in Athens.
We got back to the hotel around three thirty (Becky and Krystin went back to their apartments) and we hung out, showered, did some work, read, and organized ourselves for a few hours. Around six, we headed back out to meet Becky to do some shopping (we all still had a little bit more souvenir shopping to do) and to climb to the big rock near the Acropolis to watch the sunset (maybe not an island view, but still pretty awesome).
We managed to buy for all the people we needed to… I am a little bit regretful that I didn’t do more shopping in Delphi. The prices seemed better there. But depending on what we were looking for, prices were better in different places. Now we know. But the sunset was lovely (a little anticlimactic, as there were a fair amount of clouds. We were not the only ones on the rock – apparently it was a pretty popular viewing place. But the city sparked very nicely, and even with the clouds and haze, it was very beautiful.
After the sunset, we went back to the delicious garlic-dip-featuring restaurant. It was (again) delicious (and featured garlic dip – at least for me). After dinner, we shopped a little bit more, and headed back to the hotel. We were pretty much pooped. It had been a pretty busy last few days – we wanted to take a few easy.
More Photos!
Santorini - A whole island tour!
Hello all,
Sorry that I’ve been a little late in finishing our Santorini adventure stories. It was not intentional, but I wanted to spend some time uploading some pictures and all that, and the internet connection lacked… connection, for quite a while.
Anyway, we got up around 8:00 on Sunday morning to hit our tour running. The daughter of the owners of the hostel had warned us that the tour we had picked was pretty intense, and that by the end of the day, we were likely to be quite tired. We, however, figured that we were all pretty buff, and could handle the tour, no problem. Santorini Tour – 5. Nice American girls – 0.
It started out pretty reasonably. The bus brought us to a few locations in the morning, all of which had fantastic views for photographing. We were even feeling pretty good about the stair count there for a while (we were only at around 80 that had to be climbed – at least until later in the morning). The views were pretty great. And that was before we got on the boat.
So, our tour of the island actually became our tour of what used to be Santorini – prior to the volcano eruption many, many years ago. The volcano eruption caused the largest caldera (collapsed volcano) in the world. There are now four or five islands that surround the rim of the collapsed volcano. Santorini is the largest, and the most habitable of the island.
And before I tell you about the islands that we visited, I have to let you know the answer to my burning question to the tour guide. Since Santorini is still an active volcanic island, do they take full advantage of their geothermic energy resources? Nope. None of that. They also don’t do much more than solar water heaters, and they can’t build wind turbines, because they would spoil the view. So… the islands that have pretty much hit the trifecta of potential renewable energy sources are… not using them. They burn oil.
Anyhoo, the first of the islands around the caldera that we visited (by boat, which was quite awesome) was the most active of the volcanic islands. It was very neat (and included stairs in many places). Kinda like climbing Laki, in Iceland (minus the stairs), except that this was in direct sun, and it was approximately 7000 degrees outside. But there was a breeze, so it worked out – and again, many, many sunscreen applications. Thankfully, I had chosen to wear a real tee-shirt (go Duke!) for the day, so the sun was not as bad as it could have been.
The boat stop was to the hot spring/mud baths. The idea was to jump off the boat and swim to the hot springs. So we did that. It sounds pretty grand. There were, however, a few minor issues. First, the hot springs were a 400-meter swim from the boat. That doesn’t sound like all that much, but it ends up being around a half a mile of swimming. That’s doable, but the buoyancy of the super-salty water, combined with the waves made it a more challenging swim. Also, it wasn’t as if we were swimming to a place where we could put our feet down. Even in the hot spring area, it was mostly clinging to the rock sides and scooping mud from there… it was still too deep to touch bottom. And finally, all of this had to be done in half an hour. That also made things more challenging. But we did it anyway. And it was lots of fun. But totally exhausting.
And were we done at this point? Nope. But it was time for lunch (at another island… so there was more boating involved). The next island we stopped at had only a few tiny towns, one of which was at the top of a mountain (hundreds of steps) and one at sea level. We chose to get lunch at sea level (it was around three, and we were famished at that point). By the time we finished lunch, sat on the beach a little bit, and wandered around the town, it was time to get back on the boat and go to Oia.
Now, Oia is known for its wonderful sunsets. Which we’d seen pictures of, and we were all looking forward to seeing in person. But here were the stairs that we had spent all day practicing for. So they drop you off the boat at sea level. And then there are 280 stairs (not normal ones, with right angles, but ones where even the “flat surfaces” are slanted upwards). And you can either take a donkey up this narrow road, or you can walk up. Those are your options.
So, normally I’m fairly adventurous. Or at least a little adventurous. But when I’m exhausted, I am much less willing to try new things. Like donkeys. On narrow upward (and slippery) stairs. So Becky, Katie, and Caitlynn rode donkeys to the top (they had a ton of fun), and Krystin and I climbed the stairs. Was that a smart decision? Maybe not. I was so exhausted by the time I got to the top that I wanted to cry. The sun plus the temperature, plus the volcano, plus the swim… it was too much. And I was not the only one feeling it. So we sat in the shade for what felt like ages.
And even after all that, it was still two and a half hours until sunset. Ridiculous. So we decided to wander around Oia for a little bit and then head back to our hostel pre-sunset. We may have missed out on the sunset, but I think that maybe I got an equal amount out of falling asleep for two hours, eating dinner (French fries), and going back to sleep for another ten hours.
Katie and Krystin went back out to Fira to watch the World Cup match (Go Spain!). I barely even noticed them come back afterwards. Maybe Katie will do a blog on the World Cup. She said that it was pretty exciting. "Dramatic soccer moments" and all that.
Monday, July 12, 2010
Katie Thorne: Blogger Extraordinaire
From Katie Scarlett:
I am excited to have the opportunity to guest blog, which is a direct result of the group separating after losing each other in Santorini. Because I had my motorcycle license (special shout out to my dad for helping me purse that dream) I was able to rent a vespa while the other ladies rented ATV’s to ride around the island for the day. After losing Catherine and Becky, Caitlynn, Kristin, and I decided to head to the beach for about an hour. The beach was beautiful, rocky and filled with lava pebbles, and water that was crystal clear. We relaxed and soaked up the sun, and those of you who know me, understand my love of tanning so I thoroughly enjoyed our sojourn on the beach at Kumari.
Even though we could have spent the day relaxing there, we decided that we must Seize the Day and ventured back to get our vehicles to head our for a cruise of the island. We then proceeded to ride to the northern most point of the isle, taking the scenic coastal route all the way to the Bay of Armenia. We leisurely made our way twisting and turning through the mountainous landscape, viewing sights that one only could imagine would exist in their dreams. The wind blowing through my hair, and the picturesque mountainside filled with white villas with blue roofs, I had a moment where I truly felt as though I was in heaven. Now mind you there are no street signs on the entire island, and really no rules to the road, so at times when large tour buses would pass us it was a little unnerving, but made for an adventure I will never forget.
After about and hour we wound our way down from the top of the mountain to the Bay. We turned the corner, and what we saw is more than words can describe, but I will try my best. The Bay of Armenia was a small fishing village, at the bottom of the mountain, which stood around 1000 feet above the cove. The water was crystal clear, unlike any I had seen before. Blues, greens, aquamarine, really any shade of azul that you can imagine was how one could describe the water. And the fishing boats were as colorful as an artist’s pallet. We decided this was the perfect place to break for lunch so we found a small restaurant where we could sit and enjoy the view. Then came lunch and boy do I like to eat, especially fresh seafood. There was fresh calamari, fish, muscles, straight off of the fishing boats, my mouth is watering right now reminiscing about how decadent it tasted.
After we finished lunch, we proceeded back to our vehicles’ and decided we wanted to see the southern most point of the island. Again we twisted and turned, passing countless wineries and villas along the road. And for you horticulture lovers out there, the vineyards are quite different than any I have ever seen. The vines grow on the ground, in little mounds, due to the lack of water. They absorb water through the humidity, so you don’t really see rows and rows of grapes, but little mounds planted sporadically in the ground. The same goes for the cherry tomatoes, which at every stand you stop at they have drying in the sun. Enough of my horticulture rant, I could go on for hours about how impressive the utilization of the land is with limited resources, but back to our adventure.
Around an hour later we made it to the Red Beach, where to our surprise we ran into Catherine and Becky. They were on there way back to Fira and suggested we spend some time hiking our way to the beach to relax for a bit. We made our way via the jagged cliffs to a hidden oasis on the southern side of the island. In our distance we could see yachts and smaller island, a pictures landscape I never will forget. With our bellies still full from lunch we sprawled out like fat sea lions on the red and black lava pebbles every so often dipping in the water to sooth our sun kissed skin. It was perfect and I realized then that this island would be one that would be etched in my memory forever.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Santorini - Day One
Friday, July 9, 2010
Seven sunscreen applications!
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Back in Athens
Well. We have had quite the eventful day already (and it's only around six in the evening). We've really gotten quite lucky. So I'll go in order.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Delphi! (the rest!)
Delphi! (the beginning)
Well if you thought that yesterday was an adventure… it totally was. But today was too, in its own, unique way. As you may remember, today was the day that we had planned to go to Delphi. As such, we got up at 6:00 to catch the 7:30 bus. Sounds simple. And yet.
Problem number one: most of the maps of Athens, including the ones in our books, don’t cover the area of town that the bus station is in. Caitlynn’s sister was able to point us in the right general direction, and the guy at our hotel desk was able to speak in vague generalities, but overall, we had very little information. Googlemaps was not particularly informative either, as everything is (predictably) in Greek.
So we got up, headed off, and got off the metro at the stop that Google suggested was closest. We knew that there was going to be a little bit of a walk, so we just started asking people for directions. Unfortunately, people didn’t always know what we were asking, which lead to a 30-40 minute brisk walk through Athens.
We finally discovered the bus station around 7:27 AM. Katie went sprinting inside to try to get tickets, asked a lady what to do, turned around, and sprinted out of the station to platform 10. She claims that it was like the Amazing Race. Very dramatic. Long story short, we made it. We were pretty sure that we had gotten our morning workout in though.
Three hours later, we arrived in Delphi. We were able to check into the hostel when we got to town, but we couldn’t get to our room since it was being cleaned. So, we dropped our luggage and headed to the archaeological site.
We were soooo wrong about the walk to the bus station being our morning workout. The site at Delphi is basically carved out of a mountain (I’ll post pictures). So getting to the top was quite exciting (it reminded me of Laki in Iceland – except that Laki was actually easier to climb, because it’s not covered in worn down marble steps – I swear that I’ve now learned my lesson with the flip flops), but also quite exhausting. And by that time, it had started to get really, really hot.
The ruins were very neat. A lot of it seemed to be relatively intact. We were able to see the Athenian treasury building, a large amphitheater, a stadium (at the very top), and the floor plan for the temple of Apollo (an a whole lot of other used-to-be-buildings). Since we were relatively worn out after the site, we decided to go back to the hostel, do lunch, maybe take it easy for a few hours, and then go back for the Delphi Archaeological Museum and general shopping.
And here’s the rest of the day: 4:00 pm onward
And we’re back. Between intermittent Internet connections and jet lag, I went to bed. But here’s the rest of it.
After dropping our stuff and leaving the hotel, we hopped back on the metro for a few stops, which took us pretty close to the Acropolis. There, we wandered through the streets for a while, slowly working our way up toward the Acropolis. Lots of stairs and polished marble everywhere – flip flops were not the best footwear option, but we managed pretty well.
By the time we got up to the place where you entered the Acropolis, it was past five (and the Acropolis closes at 7:00) and we still had a 20-30 minute walk, so we decided to just get a ticket that can be used for several sites for the next four days, and we headed back down.
On the way down, we stopped to buy water, and there were gentlemen inside the store making jewelry. While I waited, one of them made me a pair of copper earrings. Very spirally and cool looking (thrifty too – only five Euro).
Since we were meeting Krystin (Caitlynn’s sister) by the metro stop at 7:30, we decided to walk through the lower Agora, where we made our way through all manner of ruins (pictures to come).
That took us to around 7:10, so we headed back to the metro and wandered around poking through stores and whatnot. Some of the blown glass around here is absolutely gorgeous.
We met up with Krystin and headed for food (which was great, because we had only had a snack by the hotel). I got lamb in a lemon sauce, which was delicious and came with potatoes. In general, we got a ton of food, and it was all pretty tasty. Toward the end of dinner, the food and the walking and the jetlag all seemed to hit pretty hard, so we headed back to our hotel. Krystin picked up the stuff that we had brought with us for her from America and headed back to her apartment.
So that was pretty much the day. On to our updates. We have decided to switch things up a little bit before Santorini. Tomorrow, we are going to (attempt to) take the 7:30 bus to Delphi. This will take around three hours. We’re going to spend the day there, and stay in the hostel in Delphi as planned.
On Thursday, we’re going to take the 9:00 AM bus back to Athens (getting in around noon). We’ve talked to our Athens hotel, and (theoretically) reserved our room for Thursday night as well. We’ll see about how well that actually works, but here’s hoping.
So we’ll spend the afternoon and evening visiting the Acropolis and some of the other sites that the tickets we bought get us in to. Should be lots of fun.
Then, on Friday, Katie and I are going to take a cruise. This cruise will start at 7:15 and take us to three different islands (Aegina, Hydra, and Poros). We’ll get back in to Athens around 7:45 in the evening. It seems like a pretty good deal – they take care of lunch and all the transportation, all for 99 Euro, which, since our car plans kinda blew up, fits our budget reasonably well too. It seems line a relaxing way to spend the day. Caitlynn and Krystin are going to take the day to see more of Athens and explore.
We will no doubt be crashing pretty early on Friday, as we have to be back at the airport on Saturday morning at 4:30 in the AM for our flight to Santorini. Wooo for Greek islands J